Battery Vehicle Society

Posted: **Sat Oct 05, 2013 8:16 pm**

so those with 5.1V had probably one cell dead - needed replace
one with 6.1V was probably good?

anyway with ECO light coming at 50% - changing one cell to good will get you at around ECO coming at 20-30% so still not perfect.... still I think one or two battery will need replace - the question is which one

it is good idea to put 100% OK batteries in 11-pack to not have to remove it again... and to findout the others packs which are way easier to remove.

I've learned from Germans

that in 100% good van should eco light come at 0% or even below(!).... but I think that when eco light comes between 0 - 5% it is also "the perfect Blingo"

Posted: **Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:50 am**

chatwindows wrote:As you are aware I have always suffered with my heater. It always lights up and gets warm, then it switches off and thats that for a while. I listened one day and discovered that the electric pump was getting very noisy, then when hot it would stop. I bought a replacement off e-Bay, (£35) they fit Rover Discoveries, BMWs etc as engine heaters. I had to change the bottom piece to get the pipes running the right way, 4 screws, and put it back together. (with some jointing) I bled the system, switch on and blow into the header tank until the bubbles stop. Tried it and 'viola' the van now gets hot and will stay hot all journey. I think the pump failing was causing the heater to overheat and cut out. Worth knowing about.
Thanks again and I'll report in after test flight tomorrow. chatwindows.

I think the diaphragm gets hard in the pump due to all the nasties they put in fuel these days, most of the pumps were manufactured pre all this eco tosh they put in fuels today and thus it hardens the rubber etc, I had limited success with mine by adding a bit of oil to the mix, but then you also get water condensating in the tank due to the methanol rather liking water :roll:

and that it eats other things as well

ChrisB

Battery Vehicle Society

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