Battery Vehicle Society

I have just bought a 1974 smiths milk float. and I want to charge it from my domestic supply.
The formular I was given to determin the socket rating, was, 1.55 x the total vehicle voltage (in my case 72v) x the ampage (60amp) devided by the supply voltage (240v). so1.55 x 72 = 111.6 x 60 = 6696 devidedby 240 = 27.9 so a32 amp socket will be adequate for my needs.
does anyone Know better?

An electric cooker socket with a 32 or 40 amp circuit breaker works great.
Peter

Many thanks peter .
Thats what I was hoping

Dont forget to feed with a bit of 6mm cable or bigger dependent on length of run

And dont forget doing almost any electrical work in your own home is now covered by Part P

ChrisB

I finaly got my milk float to take a charge!
it needed a 63amp C curve breaker.
It regected a 40amp, and a 50amp B curve, probly due to the sensitivety of my consumer unit.
I'd like to thank those of you, who offerd it, for your advise.
Many thanks

ChrisB wrote:And dont forget doing almost any electrical work in your own home is now covered by Part P

ChrisB

Some of us are blissfully unaware as to what Part P is

something to do with taking the P... ?

qdos wrote:

ChrisB wrote:And dont forget doing almost any electrical work in your own home is now covered by Part P

ChrisB

Some of us are blissfully unaware as to what Part P is

something to do with taking the P... ?

Part P: Ensuring tax generation under the pseudonym of safety legislation.

Cynical, moi?!

I'm glad I'm blissfully unawares of it then

qdos wrote:I'm glad I'm blissfully unawares of it then

Probably best.

A more in depth description - you are no longer allowed to carry out many forms of wiring in a house unless you are "part P qualified" (i.e. an electrician that has paid the local council several £k for a piece of paper). Certain things you can still do, like adding or moving a socket / lightswitch, but you can't add new ring mains etc, and working in any "wet room" is strictly off the list. Any works you do that are covered under part P now need certifying by an electrician, who will charge a considerable amount for doing absolutely bugger all.

As I say, just a new form of tax by the gov't dressed up as 'elf n safeteee' Apparently came in because one of the idiots in power (could have been moron brooon) had a relative killed / injured by some dodgy electrics.

The Part P regs. have in many cases done nothing for electrical safety. The cost of certification has put many competent 'handyman' type operators out of business and some of those who've filled the gap have just one certified electrician to sign off all the work done by multiple crews (low or even zero skilled!).

You can still do all your own electrical work and you can still use a non certified electrician, but the work will need to be signed off by your local 'Building Control' department. My boss has just completely re-wired his house, layed power to and wired an outbuilding. It cost him £200 to have the work signed off by the local BC department (they want to see first and second fix).

If you do any work that needs Part P and you don't get it signed off, then your house insurance is invalid and your property unsaleable. In many cases your work can be invisible and there won't be a problem, but in the event of an insurance claim, or the sale of a property, people will be actively looking for problems.