Less range

[Rob.Lincs]

Hi

I've had my berlingo 3 yrs and covered approx 20,000 miles.

Using an evlite I've watered 3 times and replaced the brushes a couple of times. Other than that no problems.

The dreaded warning light has been on ever since I've had the vehicle.

The range has always been 45 - 50 (did manage 59.2 once!) and my journey to work in the morning has always left me with 85 - 88%.

Over the last few weeks the needle is going down quicker! Where as I used to travel approx 4 - 5 miles before the needle moved off 100%, it has now started moving at about 2 miles. When I reach work I have 80 - 82%. I am worried!!

Any ideas?

Robert

[ChrisB]

Could be that you've got a battery or two thats giving up the ghost ??

What age are the units ??

Quick run round with a voltmeter on the 4 creates should quickly narrow the problem.

Must admit 3 waterings in 20k seems a bit low really, I generally water my set every 4k.

I generally find mine runs at 5miles on the energy meter usage of 10% and unless its done a EQ charge then will drop off 100% within 3miles or so, if its done an EQ charge then I've managed 9miles before it drops from 100% but it does need to be good weather.

ChrisB

[arsharpe]

Given that the energy meter only shows the amount of charge removed and makes an assumption about the battery capacity, i.e it does not actually measure the charge in the batteries, it looks like you are drawing more energy than normal rather than having reduced battery capacity. The only thing you can actually rely on is the low charge warning light.

I would suggest checking anything that would cause a significant increase in the energy usage/mile, e.g. tyre pressures, sticking brakes and tracking, etc.

As an aside I agree with Chris that amount of watering does seem low.

Rob

[Grumpy-b]

For my usage , 40 miles each day with a partial top up in between, I need to maitenance charge every 2000 miles or 500hrs. Its proving to be reliable. I would check the battery pack voltages when the charge is about half used. Check the voltages Main centre pack should be over 66v each of the lower back and front should be 36V top engine bay one 24+ ideally with a good charge they should be about 10% up on these values.
I get about 5 miles per 10% power and mine gets to 95% after about 5 miles. I sometimes dont get fully charged overnight as the economy 7 shuts off before it completes some charges, I guess sometimes its trying to do a balance charge.
Watering is really important especially in this hot weather.

Grumpy-b

[ChrisB]

Given that the energy meter only shows the amount of charge removed and makes an assumption about the battery capacity, i.e it does not actually measure the charge in the batteries, it looks like you are drawing more energy than normal rather than having reduced battery capacity. The only thing you can actually rely on is the low charge warning light.

mmmm interesting, I'm sure it does look at voltage to degree as my energy meter dips significantly once I start chewing into capacity and the volts start to dip. I thought the energy meter worked out the calculation from given discharge and current battery voltage and then transposes this into amount of capacity, and thus as the voltage dips off faster then the energy meter drops faster, although it can only do this within I suspect given boundrys as you can run out of juice before the energy meter says your at 0% or at the other end of the scale you can still be driving (as I have done in the past) with the energy meter at 0% yet theres still power available.

I would suggest checking anything that would cause a significant increase in the energy usage/mile, e.g. tyre pressures, sticking brakes and tracking, etc.

Now thats actually a good point Rob, one classic is the handbrake that can get stuck and also get mall adjusted so that the it actually comes on a little over each bump, mine was close to doing this and I backed it off quite a bit so I get at least 4 clicks before it even attempts to bring the brakes on.

ChrisB

[Rob.Lincs]

Hi

Thanks for the ideas.

I will check out the brakes. I also have a noisy front wheel bearing which I will replace and one of the front tyres seems to need regular top ups of air - perhaps time to replace.

If I want to check the batteries (I'm slightly worried about high current DC) is it easy?

I have an early Mk 1 evlite - do the later versions tell you any more crucial info?

Robert

[Grumpy-b]

First thing you need to do is check the battery voltages of each pack, the one at the lower front is a paint to get to the fuse / bridges, so check that by subtraction.
You need a DC Voltmeter of at least 200V Mine is a digital one and so it doesnt matter which way round it goes (+ -) If you have a conventional meter be careful and watch what the meter does if it goes negative , swap the leads over quickly.
Take the cover off the control unit, you may need to prise it off as the rubber seals tend to hold it. Measure/ note the voltage across the centre two large cables held in with 13mm nuts. This is the overall system voltage.
Put the cover back.
Pull out the fuse / bridge in front on the drivers side of the Top engine battery. Each of the fuse units (I wont refer to bridges again) is connected to the batteries by the centre set of screws, (ie ventre being between the fuse units.) Measure and note the voltages.
Leave the fuses out for the moment.
Go to the back of the car. The rear battery box has a set of fuses on the back drivers side. Do the same for measuring the voltages here. Put the fuses back.
For the centre pack the fuses are on either side, so two people is much easier than one. Stretch the volt meter cables under the Van. Pull the fuses, the battery side is at the front of these fuse units. Check and note voltages. Put fuses back.
Turn on lighs leave for a few minutes. Go to engine bay. check voltage across 12v Battery. Trn of lights. Put back engine bay Fuse / bridge .
Add up the three Battery pack voltages, and subtract from the overall voltage.
Post all this lot on the Forum.

regards
Grumpy-b