Does anyone have a copy of the berlingo MK2 wiring diagram.
In my Multispace build, I am having problems with the headlight levelling circuits.
The mk1 and mk2 use quite different control units and adjusters. I was going to swap my MK1 unit in to my MK2 dash, it will fit and since my wiring is basically mk one its a good start, however I really dont understand how to wire up to the headlight units, they seem very different. I can work out what does what but with no info on the connetions Im a bit stumped. The adjuster is buried in the headlight unit, not removable as per the Mk1.
SO if anyone has access to a MK2 wiring diagram I would be really very appreciative. It could save me hours of guesswork.
Regards
Grumpy-b
Blingo mk wiring
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I have a exterior lamp wiring diagram for a 2002 berlingo, not the electric, just a ICE version, but it shows the internal headlamp adjuster. I can post it to you if you like, PM me with your address.
It shows a 3 pin adjuster switch on the dash with the following pinouts;
Pin 1 (wire no. 276) to pin 5 on both headlamp units (adjuster motor).
Pin 2 (wire no. 275) to Pin 1 on NS headlamp unit. (dipped beam bulb)
Pin 3 (wire no. MC43) to earth
The adjuster motors get a feed from the dipped beam bulb and earth through pin 7 on the headlamp.
Hope that helps.
Greg
It shows a 3 pin adjuster switch on the dash with the following pinouts;
Pin 1 (wire no. 276) to pin 5 on both headlamp units (adjuster motor).
Pin 2 (wire no. 275) to Pin 1 on NS headlamp unit. (dipped beam bulb)
Pin 3 (wire no. MC43) to earth
The adjuster motors get a feed from the dipped beam bulb and earth through pin 7 on the headlamp.
Hope that helps.
Greg
Greg Fordyce
Daewoo Matiz
http://www.evalbum.com/4191
Daewoo Matiz
http://www.evalbum.com/4191
Now sorted, (but not tested) the cable markings correlated to the 2007 parts I have used.
The doors I am using have central locking and electric windows. The Electrique harness has connections for the central locking control box to the side behind the drivers seat. This just plugs into a control box thats wired into the locking circuits.
I have now found out this part is also common to Peugeot 306 and 405, its part number 6547VG, so I should be able to obtain one of these fairly simply.
The elelctric windows also have a connection nearby, that enables a one hit automatic rise or decend on the drivers door, this means the switch isnt wired sufficiently heavily to take the window current. The Passenger one is wired OK and its all there in the harness. Now I need to sort this control box.
As the MK2 s use a electronic control for a lot of the functions it means simple things like the hazard switch is going to require some relays, wheras the MK1s used a simple switch the MK2 switch has a tiny single set of contacts the rest being done by the electronic controls.
I now have started on the rebuilding of the electrique gauges into a mk2 dash, not an easy job but it will fit in with some serious surgery to the separate gauge assemblies.
Im still happy with my decision to move to the MK2 dash it goes with the rest of the interior.
One thing I do need to sort is a strong lock motor or solenoid that will have at least 15mm pull, to work the charge flap catch. Its almost impossible to mount the std MK1 flap lever into the MK2 dash, so I am considering doing it electrically with a cable still into the under bonnet area so I can manually open it if the motor / solenoid fails. I have some 70s triumph TR7 Lucas huge door lock solenoids but they dont have enough movement.
Grumpy-b
The doors I am using have central locking and electric windows. The Electrique harness has connections for the central locking control box to the side behind the drivers seat. This just plugs into a control box thats wired into the locking circuits.
I have now found out this part is also common to Peugeot 306 and 405, its part number 6547VG, so I should be able to obtain one of these fairly simply.
The elelctric windows also have a connection nearby, that enables a one hit automatic rise or decend on the drivers door, this means the switch isnt wired sufficiently heavily to take the window current. The Passenger one is wired OK and its all there in the harness. Now I need to sort this control box.
As the MK2 s use a electronic control for a lot of the functions it means simple things like the hazard switch is going to require some relays, wheras the MK1s used a simple switch the MK2 switch has a tiny single set of contacts the rest being done by the electronic controls.
I now have started on the rebuilding of the electrique gauges into a mk2 dash, not an easy job but it will fit in with some serious surgery to the separate gauge assemblies.
Im still happy with my decision to move to the MK2 dash it goes with the rest of the interior.
One thing I do need to sort is a strong lock motor or solenoid that will have at least 15mm pull, to work the charge flap catch. Its almost impossible to mount the std MK1 flap lever into the MK2 dash, so I am considering doing it electrically with a cable still into the under bonnet area so I can manually open it if the motor / solenoid fails. I have some 70s triumph TR7 Lucas huge door lock solenoids but they dont have enough movement.
Grumpy-b
- BasilBadger
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Grumpy-b wrote:One thing I do need to sort is a strong lock motor or solenoid that will have at least 15mm pull, to work the charge flap catch. Its almost impossible to mount the std MK1 flap lever into the MK2 dash, so I am considering doing it electrically with a cable still into the under bonnet area so I can manually open it if the motor / solenoid fails. I have some 70s triumph TR7 Lucas huge door lock solenoids but they dont have enough movement.
Grumpy-b
Nice going with the conversion!
Couldn't you use a wiper motor? If there is space for it i'd recommend that.
I have used both solenoids and wiper motors for custom jobs, when people want doorhandles removed. The wiper motors seem to last forever, whereas the solenoids tend to die in a few years.
All the best,
Henrik
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